Guidebook: Stedman's "Kilimanjaro: A trekking guide to Africa's Highest Mountain"

After returning to my blog after a several year hiatus, I was pleasantly surprised to note that I was getting a bit of traffic from the website: http://www.climbmountkilimanjaro.com/  , which had links to a number of blogs including this one.  What was even more flattering was finding out that this website was maintained by none other than Henry Stedman, who is the author of what is in my opinion, the definitive guide to trekking on Kilimanjaro.   Go to amazon.com and search kilimanjaro... as of 2012, there is not another guidebook that has a higher rating (5 stars) or number of reviewers than Stedman's "Kilimanjaro: A trekking guide to Africa's highest mountain."

Looking back at my posts for the first time in what seems ages, I was a bit horrified to note that not one  made mention to Stedman's guidebook, which was the bible that helped prepare me prior to the trip, as well as serve as my reference on the mountain itself.  In addition to having sections on each of the major routes,  it also provided a good amount of background information on the mountain and region, to help put in context what I was experiencing on the hike itself.  Internet access was not available on Kili when I made my trek in 2006, as as far as I'm aware its not available in 2012! So for information geeks such as myself, this guidebook was worth the effort to carry.  Its actually very compact  (5 X 7 inches, ~ 0.5 lbs/ 250g).  I used the 2nd edition (blue cover below); but there is a new updated version that I have not seen.

Stedman's guide along with a map are what I carried on the mountain itself (International Travel Maps: Kilimanjaro; you can google this.  It is a very good scaled topo map) .

I've also since taken a look at Stedman's website.  Although I haven't yet had the chance to read everything in detail, I will say that this appears to be one of the most comprehensive and well organized websites on Kilimanjaro trekking.  Once again, the information geek in me appreciates the amount of useful background detail on the mountain, along with the practical/essential tips.  This website might have existed at the time I did my trip in 2006, but it certainly wasn't in the format that is today.  I undoubtably would have used this as my reference point if I was planning my trip in 2012.

This post may be a belated way of returning the favor to a website/author (THE definitive Kili expert?) who graciously made mention of my blog.   However, while for me Kilimanjaro was a singular event that impacted my life,  for Henry Stedman, Kilimanjaro is an ongoing passion, and he continues to accumulate further experience and knowledge that is shared in his book/website.  I would be making the same recommendation regardless of whether or not Stedman had ever laid eyes on Kilimanjarotomorrow.

Our Itinerary

Maps are from (www.encountertanzania.com)

The organization of this trip was Ajay's baby. He put a lot of effort into researching and planning. Maybe he'll give his two cents if he gets a chance. Based on his work, our itinerary:

January 30th, 2006. Arrive JRO airport in the evening. Meet Zara Tours and
transfer to the Springlands hotel near Moshi for B&B accommodation.
January 31st. Spare day. Overnight Springlands hotel.

February 1st (leg 1). KILMANJARO, MACHAME ROUTE (a more detailed description of this hike can be found here). After breakfast drive to Machame village (1800m). Walk to Machame hut (3000m), a 1200m gain in elevation. 6 hours walking for 10km distance. This is a walk through the cloud forest.

February 2nd (leg 2). To Shira hut (3800m, 5 hours). 800m elevation gain. Only 7km total distance but steep. The summit comes into view during this leg as you climb above the forest. Two distinctive flora of the mountain first make their appearance: the squat, dry looking Senencia tree with a leafy crown on top, and the cabbage like, phallic Lobelias.

February 3rd (leg 3). To Barranco hut (3940m, 4 hours). Despite a 10km hike, up to a peak altitude of 4500m, only 150m gain in TOTAL elevation. Lava Towers appears during the second part of this hike, as you decend to Barranco hut.

February 4th (leg 4). To the Karanga Valley (4000m, 3 hours). Glaciers come into view. Landscape is barren. Leg 4 and 5 can sometimes be combined, but doing them on separate days allows an extra day of acclimitazation. Last chance to fill up on water.

February 5th (leg 5). Climb out of the Karanga valley to Barafu hut (4600m, 3 hours). Barafu means "ice" in Swahili, and the camp is probably called this due to its proximity to the Rebmann glacier.

February 6th (leg 6). Very early start for the summit (5892m; a 1300m gain in elevation). 6+ hours on switchbacks of loose scree to obtain the rim (Stella's point). However, it's an extra hour to Uhuruv Peak. Descend to Barafu hut for a rest and lunch (this is a hour and a half hike from Stella's point), then walk to camp at Mweka hut (3100m, and additionanl 2.5 hours hike).

February 7th (leg 7). Final descent to Mweka Park gate (1500m) and transfer to Springlands for B&B

February 8th. 8 am. Meet Roy's Safari in Moshi and drive to Office in Arusha. Afternoon Tour of Crater, followed by dinner and overnight in Ngorogoro Sopa Lodge

February 9th. Morning tour of the Ngorongoro Crater. Game drive en route to Serengeti National Park in the afternoon. Overnight in Serena Serengeti Lodge.

February 10th. Full day of game viewing in Serengeti National Park. Overnight in Serena Serengeti Lodge.

February 11th. Game viewing en route to Seronera airstrip for 1045am flight to JRO airport. Leave Tanzania in evening.

February 12th. Arrive back at the U.S.