Guidebook: Stedman's "Kilimanjaro: A trekking guide to Africa's Highest Mountain"

After returning to my blog after a several year hiatus, I was pleasantly surprised to note that I was getting a bit of traffic from the website: http://www.climbmountkilimanjaro.com/  , which had links to a number of blogs including this one.  What was even more flattering was finding out that this website was maintained by none other than Henry Stedman, who is the author of what is in my opinion, the definitive guide to trekking on Kilimanjaro.   Go to amazon.com and search kilimanjaro... as of 2012, there is not another guidebook that has a higher rating (5 stars) or number of reviewers than Stedman's "Kilimanjaro: A trekking guide to Africa's highest mountain."

Looking back at my posts for the first time in what seems ages, I was a bit horrified to note that not one  made mention to Stedman's guidebook, which was the bible that helped prepare me prior to the trip, as well as serve as my reference on the mountain itself.  In addition to having sections on each of the major routes,  it also provided a good amount of background information on the mountain and region, to help put in context what I was experiencing on the hike itself.  Internet access was not available on Kili when I made my trek in 2006, as as far as I'm aware its not available in 2012! So for information geeks such as myself, this guidebook was worth the effort to carry.  Its actually very compact  (5 X 7 inches, ~ 0.5 lbs/ 250g).  I used the 2nd edition (blue cover below); but there is a new updated version that I have not seen.

Stedman's guide along with a map are what I carried on the mountain itself (International Travel Maps: Kilimanjaro; you can google this.  It is a very good scaled topo map) .

I've also since taken a look at Stedman's website.  Although I haven't yet had the chance to read everything in detail, I will say that this appears to be one of the most comprehensive and well organized websites on Kilimanjaro trekking.  Once again, the information geek in me appreciates the amount of useful background detail on the mountain, along with the practical/essential tips.  This website might have existed at the time I did my trip in 2006, but it certainly wasn't in the format that is today.  I undoubtably would have used this as my reference point if I was planning my trip in 2012.

This post may be a belated way of returning the favor to a website/author (THE definitive Kili expert?) who graciously made mention of my blog.   However, while for me Kilimanjaro was a singular event that impacted my life,  for Henry Stedman, Kilimanjaro is an ongoing passion, and he continues to accumulate further experience and knowledge that is shared in his book/website.  I would be making the same recommendation regardless of whether or not Stedman had ever laid eyes on Kilimanjarotomorrow.

Demystifying the Kilimanjaro Outhouse

This is not the post you will find in most blogs, but I guarantee there are at least a a few would be trekkers who are wondering about this.

With the amount of foot traffic on Kilimanjaro, it is critical that trekkers adhere to the best of their abilities the adages of "leave no trace" and "take out what you bring in."  When it comes to the issue of human waste, this is accomplished by the construction of outhouses placed strategically along the various routes and in abundance at the camp sites.

These wooden outhouses are erected over deep (6-8 foot cisterns) dug into the earth.  They are not that unsimilar to some of the public restrooms you might find in Europe:  there is no commode, but a couple of slabs of wood to stand on while squatting over an opening leading to the hole down below.   It is my understanding that at various times of the year it is the waste from these commodes are hauled out by porters.

This is  relative, but I found these outhouses to be clean and up to the task, especially when you consider possible alternatives.  There weren't a lot (or any for that matter) insects due to the altitude, and minimal odors.  I've had far worse experiences in public restrooms of large metropolitan cities around the world.  I've heard that at times when the cisterns get filled up, it can be a pretty toxic experience, but that wasn't the case on my trip.  Plus, there were enough outhouses  so that you could be somewhat selective in finding the right, private spot for you to do your business.

Machame camp to Shira Camp: Recap

The elevation gain between these camps was ~2600 feet (Machame: 9843 feet; Shira: 12, 467 feet), over approximately 6 miles.  It took approximately 5-6 hours including lunch break (we liked to take our time).  The majority of the elevation gain occurred in the first 3 miles over a steep, rocky hike.  Fortunately, the path was dry... with rain, I imagined the slippery rocks would have made this part of the hike a bit challenging.

This happened to be the warmest day of our hike (still relatively low elevation) with temperatures reaching 70-80 degrees F (~25 degrees C).  This cooled rapidly later in the afternoon as the clouds moved in (temperature dropped 10 to 20 degrees F)

Shira camp was the western-most location of the Machame route.  The porters regaled us with song and dance as the sun set behind Mt Meru (further west).

Kilimanjaro peak itself, based in the waning rays of sunlight, ready to great us again in the morning

Kilimanjaroyesterday...6 years

It has been 6 years since I summited Kilimanjaro and 4 years since I last published a post in this blog. I apologize to those of you who have left comments that may have gone unnoticed by me.  Most of all I hope that you too had an experience on Kilimanjaro that was as rewarding as mine.

I am not one to start something and not finish it, and so as if the trip to Kilimanjaro were yesterday,  I will begin again where I left off 4 years ago.